Austrian Powder

This year has been a down year for powder for me and possibly you too due to the substandard season in Utah. 

Here in Innsbruck, however, we had an Austrian powder day today on the Stubai Glacier.  With only a few cm, it wasn't a deep day and I should call it dust on crust, but beggars can't be choosers in 2026.  Some decent turns were had in areas favored by the wind.  

Clear days in the Alps can't be beat.  The back side of Stubai has great views of western Tyrol.  The highest peak in the photo below is the Wildspitze, the second highest peak in Austria.  

Utahn's are familiar with morning powder in the mountains and afternoon summer in the valley, but the situation in Tyrol is even more extreme.  Stubai Glacier reaches 3210 meters (10,500 feet), comparable to the top of Alta and a bit below the top of Snowbird, but Innsbruck sits at 574 meters (1883 feet), much lower than Salt Lake City.  So we had morning powder with a summit temperature of -3.2 C (26F) at 8:50 AM and then an afternoon high in Innsbruck of 23 C (73 F).  It's 8:38 PM here now and we have the apartment windows open and are lounging in shorts and T-shirts.

Last Day "am Arlberg"

When we arrived in Innsbruck in late February, I purchased a "Freizeit Ticket", an IKON-like seasons pass good for many resorts in the Innsbruck area.  It's more than an IKON though because you can use it on many cable cars in the summer, for admission to some tourist spots, and for access to the local swimming pool.  When I purchased it, the cashier said to me "you realize that the coverage period is half over." I just smiled and said, "it won't be a problem."  

The Freizeit includes three days of skiing at the Arlberg.  Yesterday I burned my last, making it my last day "am Arlberg" (on the Arlberg).  The Arlberg is actually one of the easiest resorts to access from Innsbruck because it lies along the main train line to Bregenz and Zurich and thus there is quasi-hourly service on OBB "rail jet" trains that make limited stops.  The rail jet is not high speed, but on the track between Innsbruck and Imst-Pitztal it hits speeds of 150 to 160 km/hr (90-96 mph).  

After about an hour an ten minutes, you arrive in St. Anton where it is a five minute walk to several lifts. Snow was scant at valley level yesterday so the view leaving the station was not especially pretty!

Rather than do a "Run of Fame" day skiing from valley to valley, I decided to focus on a few areas that I wanted more time at and that get a little less skier traffic.  I started though with a run down the Arlberg Kandahar Rennen, basically the route used for World Cup DH and SG races.  It has a south and southeast aspect and given the spring conditions, was the first place to soften up for the day.  I caught an early train and had fresh corduroy.  

It's easy to carve big arcs down a run like that, but running it full gas would be terrifying.  The course oscillates between steeper sections and gliding sections and I tried to imagine transitioning into the latter at speeds of around 80 mph.  Some of those sections were even narrower than the one below.  

I then worked my way over to Stuben, a village and ski area that is typically skipped by the Run of Fame crowd. On this warm spring day, it has the advantage of being north facing, although given the early hour I skied over the back side and started on its one south facing lift, the Albonagrat double chair.  The terrain was a bit like a mini Mineral Basin at Snowbird.

The front (north-facing) side of Stuben drops about 3000 vertical feet to the village.

The terrain around Stuben is a bit unusual.  The upper mountain has some attractive freeride terrain.  

There are also some nice cruisers on the upper half (hard to see in the above), but the bottom half terrain is a bit convoluted and wavy.  There are serpentine pistes that wind their way to the base through this terrain, although I didn't take any photos.  

After lunch, I worked my way back to St. Anton.  Across the valley from St. Anton is a hidden ski area called Rendl.  There is a gondola that ascends from St. Anton to it, but you really can't see any of the terrain from town.  It's a hidden gem in many ways with a lot of open, freeride terrain and even a small terrain park if you're into that kind of thing.  

The southern portion of the resort has three fixed-grip doubles and a real old-school feel, which is very soothing given the industrial-scale lifts the cover most of the Arlberg.  Below are views looking up the Riffelbahn I and then down the Riffelbahn II which reaches just over 2600 meters.

It will be a shame when these lifts are replaced by the inevitable high-speed six pack.  

To conclude the day, I got a final thighburner back into town.  The descent into town is via a west and north facing route, but the south-facing terrain acros the valley above St. Anton is looking pretty baked.  

The Arlberg gets a lot of snow by Alpine standards, but has an abundance of south and west facing terrain and it pays the price, especially in a low snow year with warmth and abundant sunshine.  

Early Spring Alpine Hiking

One of the great things about Innsbruck is easy access in all directions but especially to the south where one can take a train over the Brenner Pass to South Tyrol for the day or a long weekend.  

South Tyrol is an autonomous province of Italy.  It was historically part of the Austrian–Hungarian Empire, but was transferred to Italy following World War I, with efforts to "Italianize" the region undertaken by Facist Italy.  Some cultural challenges remain, but today it has a wonderful blend of Tyrolean and Italian culture, beautiful mountains, and a relatively mild climate.  

We spent the past three days in Meran/Merano (German and Italian place names are used in South Tyrol), which lies in a deep valley.  They aren't native, but you can find palm trees in Milan giving it a touch of a subtropical feel.  The big one pictured below is in the gardens surrounding Trauttmansdorff Castle.  It's actually from Chile and is apparently quite cold resistant. 

Snow on the south aspects around Meran is almost non-existent up to over 2000 meters currently.  We took the opportunity to hike the Meraner Höhenweg (Merano High Trail) from Unterstell to Giggelberg, taking advantage of the cable cars on both ends of the route.  Both are smaller 25-passenger cable cars.

They also operate quasi-autonomously.  When we arrived at the Unterstell cable car there was nobody there to collect money.  It said to pay at the top where the person who is both the operator and the money collector runs the show.  They just watch on the camera, open the doors when the time comes, and you are off.  

The hike from Unsterstell to Giggleberg is about 10 km, but with a good deal of up and down as you traverse a few very steep canyons.  Our net ascent was about 800 meters (2625 feet) despite the trail giving the impresson on a map that it is just contouring along.  There are a couple of suspension bridges that span the deeper canyons.  

The route traverses both forest and pasture.  It's unbelievable where they have cleared forest for farms in this part of the world.  These all had road access (with many switchbacks), but some had small cable cars (i.e.,"materialseillbahnen") to transport goods.  

At elevations between 1500 and 1800 meters, this is a "midmountain" trail well below the highest peaks, but it had great views of the Vinschgau Valley and the high terrain to it's south and west.

As well as great views of Meran and, in the far distance, the Dolomites.  

And at the end of the hike in Giggelberg, one can replenish the calories burned with strudel, vanilla eis, and johannesbeere gespritz.  

On our last day we did some castle visits with more civilized walking.  We even saw a Lamborghini. 

Actually, as I understand it, Lamborghini started as a tractor manufacturer and only got into automobiles after a row with Enzo Ferrari. 

Our little castle hike did involve riding one lift, a single chair from Meran to Dorf Tirol.  This is as touristy as it gets. 

Our destination was Schloss Tirol (Castel Tirol), the higher of the two castles pictured below.  The lower one is Brunnenburg Castle.  

It's well worth a walk to visit Schloss Tirol if you find yourself in the Meran area.  Far more interesting than the castles of Deer Valley and the Wasatch Back. 

Pesky Mid-Slope Clouds

Mid-slope clouds are often observed on valley sidewalls in mountainous regions, especially under moist conditions.  These clouds can be produced by thermally forced flows that move upslope with daytime heating or by dynamical forcing if there is a cross-valley component to the flow that leads to upslope on one sidewall.  

Today I spent the morning skiing through a pesky mid-slope cloud at Patscherkofel, a ski area just to the south of Innsbruck.  

Patscherkofel is in many ways a cursed ski area.  It is surrounded by higher mountains, and thus is in a snow hole.  It is also at the mouth of the Wipp Valley, which descends from Brenner Pass, the lowest pass in the eastern Alps.  As a result, the Patscherkofel often experiences strong or even severe downslope winds, referred to as Foehn in the Alps.  

Foehn flow.  Source: Secrets of the Greatest Snow on Earth

That said, Patscherkofel has a number of things going for it when there isn't Foehn.  First, it is easy to access from Innsbruck.  Get on the J-bus with a pair of skis or a snowboard and you have a free ride right to the base of the Patscherkofel.  During the week, these busses run every 10 minutes.  No need to check the timetable. 

Second, the Patscherkofel has substantial vertical by American standards with a drop of 956 meters or 3136 feet, more than the Snowbird Tram.  And it's one ride to the top in a modern 10-passenger gondola.  

Third, it was the site of the 1976 Olympic Downhill, so you can retrace the route that Franz Klammer followed on his way to his famous gold medal. 

Finally, compared to many Alpine ski areas, there are actually some trees.  Mind you, it is still not the easiest place to ski in cloud, but it is better than most Alpine resorts, which is why I was there today as the options for bluebird skiing were low in Tirol (although if I was up for it I could have taken the train to Italy where it was sunny).  Plus they got some snow this week so it wasn't boilerplate from top to bottom.  

The mid-morning view from the top of the gondola tells the story. The top of the gondola was trapped in the cloud sandwich between altostratus clouds (mid-level layered clouds) and the pesky mid-slope clouds.  The photo below is taken looking toward the northwest and the mid-slope clouds were moving from right to left, wrapping around the Patscherkofel mid slope as they moved from the Inn Valley toward the lower Wipp Valley.  

The light wasn't too bad when you were above these clouds, but at times it was lights out when you descended into them. Look carefully for the skier at center right.

The Department of Atmospheric and Cryospheric Sciences here has a wind lidar, which is an instrument that uses pulses of laser light reflected off of tiny particles in the atmosphere to measure the wind speed and direction.  Using this instrument, they produce time-height sections of the flow over Innsbruck.  Below is the time-height section for a roughly 25-hour period that includes my ski this morning (between the blue lines).  I've highlighted the Patcherkofel base and the top of the gondola.  During my ski, there was flow from the ENE (I've highlightd this with a red arrow) at mid-mountain level.  This is close to an up-valley flow in the Inn Valley.  Under quiescent conditions, the flow in the Inn Valley in the morning is usually westernly (down valley), so this was a dynamically driven flow.  However, the small northerly component was probably enough to produce a little cross-valley upslope flow and cloud given the moist conditions.  

Source: University of Innsbruck

After bussing back to Innsbruck, I got a good view of the mid-slope cloud from by our apartment.  In the photo below, the top of the Patscherkofel gondola is circled and a bit below the true mountain summit.  The base is blocked by the lower ridge but I've drawn a blue arrow to indicate it's approximate location (you can see some of the trails to the right of this arrow).  The mid-slope cloud is apparent between summit and base and I've highlighted the flow with red arrows. 

I was hoping for a sunny day as this is my only possible ski day this week, but turns were had, few people were out, and interesting meteorology was observed.  

March Heat and April Snow

Forget all of that crap about March coming in like a lion and out like a lamb.  None of that stuff applies this year.  March was off-the-scale and simple sayings don't do it justice.  

This is a little premature since March 31st is not in the books yet, but let's look back on what was a remarkable and unprecedented month.  

Believe it or not, it did snow some in March.  Per the Alta Snowfall History at https://www.alta.com/weather, Alta actually got 44.5" of snow from March 1st to 6th.  That seems like a lifetime ago given the heat and dryness that followed.

With one day to go, the average temperature for March at the Salt Lake City International Airport is 53.4°F, 3.3°F higher than any previous March.  A record for the month is in the bag.  

Source: https://xmacis.rcc-acis.org/

But the mean obscures the variability and some of the extremes that occurred during the month.  This March featured five days with a maximum temperature greater than or equal to 80°F.  Prior to this year, there was only one prior March day that reached 80°F (31 March 2012).  We also reached 84°F, four full degrees higher than the previous all-time March record (also 31 March 2012) and 6°F warmer than the 20th century March record. 

Every SNOTEL station with a long-term record in the Wasatch Range currently sits at < 50% of median snowpack water equivalent and every one is at their all-time low for March 30.  EVERY ONE.  Lower-to-mid elevation SNOTELs currently do not have any snow.  Although it is not impossible that they see some snow in the future, for all intents and purposes, the seasonal snowpack at lower-to-mid elevations is gone.  For these sites, bwlow is this year's first day with no snopwack compared to the prior record in parentheses.  

Ben Lomond Trail (5970 ft): March 15 (April 2)
Farmington Lower (6850 ft): March 23 (April 4)
Parrish Creek (7760 ft): March 30 (May 2)
Parleys Summit (7590 ft): March 24 (April 4)

Timpanogos Divide currently has 0.1" of snowpack water equivalent, so it may be at zero by the end of the month too and it sits at 8180 feet.  

Parish Creek might have the most impressively anomalous snowpack of these sites.  It reached no snow yesterday (March 30).  Records for this site only go back to 2000, so not as long as some sites.  Still, they hit no snow yesterday (March 30), a bit more than a month ahead of the prior record (red line, which corresponds to the 2015 water year) and more than 6 weeks ahead of median (green line).  Illustrating the fickle nature of spring, the big peak is from the 2023 water year, which saw increasing snowpack until late April with a maximum on April 25th.  

Source: https://nwcc-apps.sc.egov.usda.gov/awdb/site-plots/POR/WTEQ/UT/Parrish%20Creek.html

Talk about a tale of two water years.  

Of course, with April Fools on tap tomorrow, a change of the weather is in store.  Showers and thunderstorms will develop later today with a trough moving through overnight bringing valley rain and upper-elevation snow, both of which could be heavy at times.  Below is the GFS forecast valid 0900 UTC 1 April (0300 MDT) showing the trough over northern Utah with widespread precipitation along and ahead of it.  

The GFS puts down 1.88" of water and 18.2" of high-density snow for Alta-Collins through 5 PM on April Fools day.  For the same period, the HRRR is at 1.33" of water and 10.6" of snow while the RRFS members are mostly around 1" of water and 10" of snow although there are a couple of low and high outliers.  A reasonable middle ground is 1–2" of water and 8–16" of high-density snow for Alta-Collins, which should be high enough to see all snow. 

For Alta-Collins, the HRRR forecast below shows most of the precipitation happening Tuesday night and early Wednesday, although it is possible that something pops up Tuesday afternoon.  Note also that the wet-bulb zero level is initially above the Alta Base and then falls to just below Elberts. Perhaps Alta will see some rain at the base late today (although in a thunderstorm the snow level could drop temporarily) and this evening before changing to wet snow.  

It's good to have precipitation in the forecast again.  

Skiing Update

With my son and his fiancé in town this week, we did a Tirolean ski trifecta hitting the Arlberg on Tuesday, Stubai Glacier on Wednesday, and Ischgl yesterday (Saturday).  All three were bluebird days and snow conditions at Stubai were quite good.

I'll focus here on Ischgl, which is located in the Paznaun Valley of western Tirol.  It's a bit of a haul on public transit (for me about 2 hours via bus, then train, then another bus), so I was glad to have a friend invite us to come along with him.  But first we had to play a game of Tetris to get four pair of 92 to 106 mm  waist-width Alpine skis and bindings into the ski slot of a Volkswagen Golf.  Somehow it worked and we were able to add three pairs of ski poles too. 

Ischgl is a big place with an abundance of high elevation northwest facing terrain.  There is a relatively flat area for "combat" skiing that seems to be popular with the tourists.  

But also some great advanced terrain, which for some reason I didn't take any photos of yesterday, so I'll drop in the one below from a few years ago which was taken looking up a chair called the Gampenbahn, which has the longest vertical rise of any six-person chair in the world (924 meters/3031 feet).  

Ischgl is also one of the hardest partying places in the Alps, infamous for a superspreader event at the beginning of COVID. One of my Tyrolean friends jokingly says that Ischgl is German for "evil place."  I probably wouldn't stay there, but I'm happy day trip to enjoy the turns and incredible scenery.  

Ischgl is also interconnected with the Swiss resort of Samnaun.  You can ski both on the same pass.  I've skied the Samnaun side before (it's got less interesting terrain than the Ischgl side), but never skied all the way down to Samnaun.  We figured we should give it a try.  The piste-route descends from off the photo to the right and then into the valley pictured below.  We enjoyed some off-piste powder turns from here though to make it interesting.  

Getting back to Ischgl involves first ascending the double-decker cable car that transports people to and from the ski area above Samnaun.  The photo below is from the top station looking back down into the Samnaun Valley. 

Perhaps if it was snowing in the Wasatch I'd feel differently, but right now I'm not missing Utah at all.